Incorporating all that we've learned in 21 years of working with carbon fiber, the 101 is the first aluminum wheelset to utilize Zipp's cutting-edge aero technologies.
The first climbing wheelset developed in the wind tunnel, the 202 practically floats up the toughest ascents, but it's tough enough and stiff enough for cobbles and crits.
Perhaps the most versatile wheelset in our line, the light and aero 303 is well suited to hilly road races and smaller riders looking for control in windy events.
Never count out the 404. Our most popular wheel has carried cyclists and triathletes to victory from the Alps to Kona, and the 2009 version is faster than ever before.
The 808 is a proven winner in triathlons and time trials, and an up-and-comer in road racing worldwide. The 2009 model sports a faster, stiffer rim shape.
This stalwart of Zipp's line is available in a myriad of configurations and is still the disc of choice for many of our top time trialist, track racers, and triathletes.
As the world's first wheel capable of generating forward lift, the Sub-9 is a giant leap forward in the science of cycling aerodynamics. Believe the hype.
Intended for time trials, track racing, and the occasional Tour de France prologue, the Super-9 is stiffer than our 900 disc and matches the Sub-9's remarkable ability to generate forward lift
Every bit of Zipp's considerable expertise is brought to bear in our 88/188 hubs, making them the ultimate choice for lightness, stiffness, and durability.
Every one of our rims is developed in the wind tunnel and tested to the limit. They're the world's fastest, and they're the heart and soul of what we do at Zipp.
We created Zipp Speed Shop to give you the option of selecting the best front and rear wheels, creating the perfect wheelset for your needs and the riding conditions you face.
Loosen and remove axle end fitting by placing two 5mm hex wrenches on either side of the axle. Turning in opposite directions the end fitting will loosen (Standard right-hand threads).
Remove axle from the hub shell by pulling on the axle opposite the threaded side. It should slide out very easy. Clean out dust and debris with a clean rag from both sides of the hub. (If you are just cleaning the hub STOP here and follow directions in reverse order to reassemble the hub.) Tighten end caps to 50 in/lbs. of torque using a drop of red Loctite 262 on the axle threads to secure the end cap. Warning! Fine pitch aluminum threads, do not over tighten!
Bearing Replacement
Remove the end caps and axle as instructed earlier in this article. Insert a flat-faced punch though one side of the hub shell bearings. Use the tip of the punch to gently push to one side the spacer tube separating the two hub body bearings.
Use the punch and small hammer to remove the hub bearings by gently tapping against the back of the bearing ID ring on alternating sides until the bearing is worked out of the hub.
Remove the aluminum spacer tube from the hub body.
Remove the opposite side hub bearing as in step #2.
Replace all bearings by pressing on the bearings' outer diameters using the appropriate sized bearing press tool (don't forget to replace the aluminum spacer).
Insert the axle through the hub shell. Using one drop of red Loctite 262 on the end cap threads to secure the end cap. Tighten the end caps to 50 in/lbs. by inserting a 5mm hex wrench into the two end caps on opposite sides of the hub. Warning! Fine pitch aluminum threads, do not over tighten!